|
|
Home/Free
Reports/Consumer Information/ How
to Choose a Pest Control Company THEY'RE
THERE. Whether you see them or not, you know they're
there--in your home, your vegetable garden, your lawn, your
fruit and shade trees, your flowers, and on your pets. They
are pests--insects, weeds, fungi, rodents, and others. American
households and their surrounding grounds are frequent
hosts to common structural pests (termites, cockroaches,
fleas, rodents), as well as a wide array of pests that
are usually associated with agriculture. Because pests are all
around--sometimes creating a nuisance but sometimes causing severe
financial loss--consumers have turned increasingly to pesticides
to control them. Just as "pests" can be anything from
cockroaches in your kitchen to algae in your swimming pool,
pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, rodenticides,
disinfectants, and plant growth regulators--anything
that kills or otherwise controls a pest of any
kind. The first
and most important step in pest control is to identify
the pest. Some pests, or signs of them, are unmistakable.
Others are not. For example, some plant "diseases"
are really indications of insufficient soil nutrients. Three
information sources are particularly helpful in identifying
pests and appropriate pest control methods: reference
books (such as insect field guides or gardening books),
the County Extension Service, and pesticide dealers. The next
step is to decide what level of treatment you want.
Is anyone in the family or neighborhood particularly sensitive
to chemical pesticides? Does your lawn really need to be
totally weed-free? Do you need every fruit, vegetable, or flower
you grow, or could you replace certain pest-prone species
or varieties with hardier substitutes? Will you accept some
blemished produce? In other words, do you need to eliminate
all weeds and insects, or can you tolerate some pests? Remember
that total pest elimination is virtually impossible,
and trying to eradicate pests from your premises will
lead you to more extensive, repeated chemical treatments than
are required for pest control. Remember, too, that to manage
any pest effectively, you must use each method (or combination
of methods) correctly. Finally, you must also abide by
all pertinent local, state, and federal regulations. Federal
Registration of Pesticides The
Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) "registers" (licenses)
thousands of pesticide products for use in and around
homes. No pesticide may legally be sold or used in the United
States unless its label bears an EPA registration number.
The Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIRA),
which governs the registration of pesticides, prohibits the
use of any pesticide product in a manner that is inconsistent
with the product labeling. Prevention There is
another important question to ask in making pest control
decisions: is there something on your premises that needlessly
invites pest infestations? The answer to this question
may lead you to take some common-sense steps to modify pest
habitat. Remove
water sources. All pests, vertebrate or invertebrate,
need water for survival. Fix leaky plumbing and
do not let water accumulate anywhere in your home. This
means no water in trays under your houseplants overnight
if you have a cockroach infestation. Remove
food sources (if the pest's food is anything other than
the plant or animal you are trying to protect). For example,
this could mean storing your food in sealed glass or
plastic containers, avoiding the habit of leaving your pet's
food out for extended periods of time, and placing your
refuse in tightly covered, heavy-gauge garbage cans. Remove
or destroy pest shelter. Caulk cracks and crevices to
control cockroaches; remove piles of wood from under or around
your home in order to avoid attracting termites; Remove
and destroy diseased plants, tree prunings, and fallen
fruit that might harbor pests. Remove
breeding sites. The presence of pet manure attracts flies,
litter encourages rodents, and standing water provides
a perfect breeding place for mosquitoes. Remove
sources of preventable stress to plants (flowers, trees,
vegetable plants, and turf). Plant at the optimum time
of year. Use mulch to reduce weed competition and maintain
even soil temperature and moisture. Provide adequate
water. Use
preventive cultural practices, such as careful selection
of disease-resistant seed or plant varieties, companion
planting to exploit the insect-repellent properties
of certain plants, strategic use of "trap" crops
to lure pests away from crops you wish to protect, crop
rotation and diversification, and optimum use of spacing.
Make sure you have good drainage and soil aeration. Non-chemical
Controls If you
practice preventive techniques such as those mentioned
above, you will reduce your chances, or frequency, of pest
infestation. However, if you already have an infestation, are
there any pest control alternatives besides chemical pesticides? The answer
is an emphatic "yes." One or a combination of several
non-chemical treatment alternatives may be appropriate. Your best
strategy depends on the pest and the site where the pest
occurs. Non-chemical
alternatives include: Biological
treatments, including predators such as purple martins,
praying mantises, and lady bugs; parasites; and pathogens
such as bacteria, viruses (generally not available
to homeowners), and other microorganisms like Bacillus
thuringiensis and milky spore disease. There
is no way to be certain how long predators will stay in
target areas. Contact your County Extension Service for information
about how to protect desirable predators. Mechanical
treatments, including cultivating to control weeds,
hand-picking weeds from turf and pests from plants, trapping
to control rodents and some insects, and screening
living space to limit mosquito and fly access. Non-chemical
pest control methods really work. They do have
some disadvantages: the results are not immediate, and
it requires some work to make a home or garden less attractive
to pests. But the advantages of non-chemical methods
are many. Compared to chemical pesticide treatments,
such methods are generally effective for longer
periods of time. They do not create hardy, pesticide-resistant
pest populations. And they can be used without
safeguards, because they pose virtually no hazards to
human health or the environment. Chemical
Controls If you
decide that chemical treatment can provide the best solution
to your pest problem, and you want to control the pests
yourself rather than turning the problem over to a professional
pest control operator, then you have an important decision
to make: which product to choose. Before making that decision,
learn as much as you can about a product's active ingredient--its
biologically active agent. Is it "broad-spectrum"
in its mode of action (effective against a broad
range of pests), or is it "selective" (effective against only
a few pest species)? How rapidly does the active ingredient
break down once it is introduced into the environment?
Is it suspected of causing chronic health effects? Is it toxic
to non-target wildlife and house pets? Is it known, or
suspected, to leach through soil into ground water? Here again,
your County Extension Service, reference books,
pesticide dealers, your state pesticide agency, or your regional
EPA office may be able to provide assistance. (Lists of
State and EPA pesticide contacts are provided at the end of this
booklet.) When you
have narrowed your choices of active ingredients, you
are ready to select a pesticide product. Choose the least toxic
pesticide that can achieve the results you desire. Read the
label. It lists active ingredients, the target pests (for example,
mites, flies, Japanese beetle grubs, broad-leafed weeds,
algae, etc.), and the sites where the product may be used
(for example, lawns, specific vegetable crops, roses, swimming
pools, etc.). Be sure the site of your pest problem is included among the
sites listed on the label. Pesticide
active ingredients are formulated in many ways. Choose the
formulation best suited to your site and the pest you
are trying to control. The most common types of home-use pesticide
formulations include: Solutions,
which contain the active ingredient and one or more
additives, and readily mix with water. Aerosols,
which contain one or more active ingredients and a
solvent. They are ready for immediate use as is. Dusts,
which contain active ingredients plus a very fine dry
inert carrier such as clay, talc, or volcanic ash. Dusts
are ready for immediate use and are applied dry. Granulars,
which are similar to dusts, but with larger and heavier
particles for broadcast applications. Baits,
which are active ingredients mixed with food or other
substances to attract the pest. Wettable
powders, which are dry, finely ground formulations
that generally are mixed with water for spray application.
Some also may be used as dusts. Depending
on the type of formulation you choose, you may need
to dilute or mix the product. Prepare only the amount that you
need for each application; don't prepare larger amounts to store
for possible future use. (See "Determining Correct Dosage.") Once you
have identified the pest, selected the right pesticide,
and determined proper dosage, you are ready to use the
product. Application technique and timing are every bit as important
as the material used, so read the label for directions.
That advice--to read the label--is repeated so often
in this guide that it may become tiresome. But in fact, the
advice cannot be repeated often enough. Read the label before
you buy a product, and again before you mix it, before you
apply it, before you store it, and before you throw it away.
The directions on a label are there for a very good reason:
to help you achieve maximum benefits with minimum risk. But
these benefits depend upon proper use of the products. Chemical
pesticides also have their disadvantages. They must
be used very carefully to achieve results while protecting users
and the environment. The results are generally temporary, and
repeated treatments may be required. Therefore,
to achieve best results when you do use chemical
pesticides, use preventive and non-chemical treatments along
with them. This will reduce the need for repeated applications. You should
always evaluate your pesticide use, comparing pre-treatment
and post-treatment conditions. You should weigh the
benefits of short-term chemical pesticide control against the
benefits of long-term control using a variety of techniques.
Knowledge of a range of pest control techniques gives
you the ability to pick and choose among them. Pests, unfortunately,
will always be around us, and, if you know about all
pest control options, you will know what to do the next time
they're there. Pesticides
are not "safe." They are produced specifically because
they are toxic to something. By heeding all the following
tips, you can reduce your risks when you use pesticides. All
pesticides legally marketed in the United States must bear
an EPA-approved label; check the label to make sure it
bears an EPA registration number. Before
using a pesticide, read the entire label. Even if you
have used the pesticide before, read the label again--don't
trust your memory. Use of any pesticide in any
way that is not consistent with label directions and precautions
is subject to civil and/or criminal penalties. Do not
use a "restricted use" pesticide unless you are a formally
trained, certified pesticide applicator. These products
are too dangerous to be used without special training. Follow
use directions carefully. Use only the amount directed,
at the time and under the conditions specified, and
for the purpose listed. Don't think that twice the dosage
will do twice the job. It won't. What's worse, you may
harm yourself, others, or whatever you are trying to protect. Look
for one of the following signal words on the front of the
label. It will tell you how hazardous a pesticide is if
swallowed, inhaled, or absorbed through skin.
"DANGER"
means highly
poisonous; "WARNING"
means moderately
hazardous; "CAUTION"
means least hazardous. Wear
the items of protective clothing the label requires: for
example, long sleeves and long pants, impervious gloves,
rubber (not canvas or leather) footwear, hat, and goggles.
Personal protective clothing usually is available at
home building supply stores. If you
must mix or dilute the pesticide, do so outdoors or in
a well-ventilated area. Mix only the amount you need and
use portions listed on the label. Keep
children and pets away from areas where you mix or apply
pesticides. If a
spill occurs, clean it up promptly. Don't wash it away.
Instead, sprinkle with sawdust, vermiculite, or kitty
litter; sweep into a plastic garbage bag; and dispose
with the rest of your trash. Remove
pets (including birds and fish) and toys from the area
to be treated. Remove food, dishes, pots, and pans before
treating kitchen cabinets, and don't let pesticides get
on these surfaces. Wait until shelves dry before refilling
them. Allow
adequate ventilation when applying pesticides indoors.
Go away from treated areas for at least the length
of time prescribed by the label. When spraying outdoors,
close the windows of your home. Most
surface sprays should be applied only to limited areas;
don't treat entire floors, walls, or ceilings. Never
place rodent or insect baits where small children or pets
can reach them. When
applying spray or dust outdoors, cover fish ponds, and
avoid applying pesticides near wells. Always avoid over-application
when treating lawn, shrubs, or gardens. Runoff
or seepage from excess pesticide usage may contaminate
water supplies. Excess spray may leave harmful residues
on home-grown produce. Keep
herbicides away from non-target plants. Avoid applying
any pesticide to blooming plants, especially if you
see honeybees or other pollinating insects around them.
Avoid birds' nests when spraying trees. Never
spray or dust outdoors on a windy day. Never
smoke while applying pesticides. You could easily carry
traces of the pesticide from hand to mouth. Also, some
products are flammable. Never
transfer pesticides to containers not intended for them,
such as empty soft drink bottles. Keep pesticides in containers
that clearly and prominently identify the contents.
Properly refasten all childproof caps. Shower
and shampoo thoroughly after using a pesticide product.
Wash the clothing that you wore when applying the product
separately from the family laundry. To prevent tracking
chemicals inside, also rinse boots and shoes before
entering your home. Before
using a pesticide product, know what to do in case of
accidental poisoning. To
remove residues, use a bucket to triple rinse tools or equipment,
including any containers or utensils used to mix
the chemicals. Then pour the rinse water into the pesticide
container and reuse the solution by applying it according
to the pesticide product label directions. Evaluate
the results of your pesticide use. So much
information is packed onto pesticide labels that there
is usually no room to include examples of each dilution applicable
to the multitude of home-use situations. As a result,
label examples may inadvertently encourage preparation of
more pesticide than is needed. The excess may contribute to overuse,
safety problems related to storage and disposal, or simply
wasted costs of unused pesticide. Determining
the correct dosage for different types of pesticides
requires some simple calculations. The following information
can help you to prepare the minimum quantity of pesticide
needed for your immediate use situation. For
example, the product label says, "For the control of aphids
on tomatoes, mix 8 fluid ounces of pesticide into 1 gallon
water and spray until foliage is wet." Your experience has
been that your six tomato plants require only one quart of pesticide
to wet all the foliage. Therefore, only 2 fluid ounces
of the pesticide should be mixed into 1 quart of water. Why?
Because a quart is one-fourth of a gallon, and 2 fluid ounces
mixed into 1 quart make the same strength spray recommended
by the label, but in a quantity that can be used up all
at once. Consumers
can solve problems similar to this one with careful
arithmetic, good measurements, and intelligent use of the
information provided here. How to
Measure If you need
to determine the size of a square or rectangular
area, such as a lawn for herbicide application, measure
and multiply the length and width. For example, an area 10
feet long by 8 feet wide contains 80 square feet. Common area
measurements may involve square yards (1 square yard = 9 square
feet) or square feet (1 square foot = 144 square inches). If you need
to determine the volume of a space such as a room,
measure and multiply the room's length, width, and height.
For example, a space 10 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 8 feet
high contains a volume of 640 cubic feet. You would use this
procedure, for instance, for an aerosol release to control cockroaches. Most
residential-use pesticides are measured in terms of volume.
Some common equivalents are: 1 gallon
(gal.) = 128
fluid ounces (ft. oz.) 1 qt. = 32
ft. oz 1 pt. = 16
ft. oz. 1 cup = 8
ft. oz. 1
tablespoon = 1/2
fl. oz. 1
teaspoon = 1/8
ft. oz. In
measuring teaspoons or tablespoons of pesticide, use only
level spoonfuls, and never use the same measuring devices for
food preparation. The
following table provides examples to help you convert label
information to your specific use situations. "Amount" can
be any measure of pesticide
quantity. However, the same unit of measure
must be used on both sides of the chart. For example, 8 fluid
ounces per gallon of water is equivalent to 2 fluid ounces
per quart of water. Not all
dosage rates are included in the examples given here.
For rates not included, remember that, for pesticides not diluted
with water, proportionally change both the quantity of pesticide
and the area, volume, or number of items treated. For example,
one-half pound per 1,000 square feet is equivalent to one-quarter
pound per 500 square feet. For a pesticide that is diluted
with water, proportionally change the quantity of pesticide,
the quantity of water, and the area, volume, or number
of items treated. For example, one-half pound of pesticide
in 1 gallon of water applied to 1,000 square feet is equivalent
to 1 pound of pesticide in 2 gallons of water applied
to 2,000 square feet. There is a
point at which measurements needed for smaller quantities
of pesticides are too minute to be accurately measured
with typical domestic measuring devices. In such cases,
the user can either mix the larger volume, realizing that
there will be leftover material; obtain a more accurate measuring
device, such as a graduated cylinder or a scale which measures
small weights; or search for an alternative pesticide or
less concentrated formulation of the same pesticide. The
following tips on home storage and disposal can help you
handle pesticides correctly. Storage Buy
only enough product to carry you through the use season,
to reduce storage problems. Store
pesticides away from children and pets. A locked cabinet
in a well-ventilated utility area or garden shed is
best. Store
flammable liquids outside living quarters and away from
an ignition source. Never
put pesticides in cabinets with, or near, food, medical
supplies, or cleaning materials. Always store pesticides in their
original containers, complete with labels
that list ingredients, directions for use, and antidotes
in case of accidental poisoning. Never transfer pesticides
to soft drink bottles or other containers that children
may associate with something to eat or drink. Always
properly refasten child-proof closures or lids. Avoid
storing pesticides in places where flooding is possible,
or in open places where they might spill or leak into
the environment. If you have any doubt about the content
of a container, dispose of it with your trash. Disposal The
best way to dispose of a small, excess amount of pesticide
is to use it--apply it--according to directions on
the product label. If you cannot use it, ask your neighbor
whether he/she can use it. If all the pesticide cannot
be used, first check with your local health department
or solid waste management agency to determine whether
your community has a household hazardous waste collection
program or any other program for handling disposal
of pesticides. If no
community programs exist, follow label directions regarding
container disposal. To dispose of less than a full
container of a liquid pesticide, leave it in the original
container, with the cap securely in place to prevent
spills or leaks. Wrap the container in several layers
of newspapers and tie securely. Then place the package
in a covered trash can for routine collection with municipal
refuse. If you do not have a regular trash collection
service, take the package to a permitted landfill
(unless your municipality has other requirements). Wrap
individual packages of dry pesticide formulations in several
layers of newspaper, or place the package in a tight
carton or bag, and tape or tie it closed. As with liquid
formulations, place the package in a covered trash can
for routine collection. Do not
pour leftover pesticides down the sink or into the toilet.
Chemicals in pesticides could interfere with the operation
of wastewater treatment systems or could pollute waterways,
because many municipal systems cannot remove all
pesticide residues. An
empty pesticide container can be as hazardous as a full one
because of residues remaining inside. Never reuse such a
container. When empty, a pesticide container should be carefully
rinsed and thoroughly drained. Liquids used to rinse
the container should be added to the sprayer or to the
container previously used to mix the pesticide and used
according to label directions. Empty
product containers made of plastic or metal should be
punctured to prevent reuse. (Do not puncture or burn a pressurized
product container--it could explode.) Glass containers
should be rinsed and drained, as described above,
and the cap or closure replaced securely. After rinsing,
an empty mixing container or sprayer may also be wrapped
and placed in the trash. If you
have any doubts about proper pesticide disposal, contact
your state or local health department, your solid waste
management agency, or the regional EPA office. Termites
are chomping away at your house. Roaches are taking
over your kitchen. Mouse droppings dot your dresser drawer.
You've got a pest control problem, and you've decided that
it's too serious for you to solve on your own. You've decided
you need a professional exterminator. If you find
yourself in a situation like this, what can you
do to be sure that the pest control company you hire will do
a good job? Here are some questions you can ask: Does
the company have a good track record? Does
the company have insurance? What kind of insurance? Can the
salesman show some documentation to prove that the company is
insured? Is
the company licensed? Is
the company affiliated with a professional pest control association? Does
the company stand behind its work? What assurances does the
company make? Is
the company willing, and able, to discuss the treatment proposed
for your home? You may
want to get two to three,
bids from different companies--by value, not price. What appears
to be a bargain may merit a second look. Even after
you have hired a company, you should continue your
vigilance. Evaluate results. If you have reason to believe that
something has gone wrong with the pesticide application, contact
the company and/or your state lead pesticide agency. Don't let
your guard down, and don't stop asking questions. Because
chemical pesticides are so widely used in our society,
and because of the properties of many of the chemicals,
low levels of pesticide residues are found throughout
the environment. Pesticides reach us in a variety of ways--through
food, water, and air. In
regulating pesticides, EPA strives to ensure that lawful
use of these products will not result in harmful exposures.
Proper use of registered products should yield residue
levels that are well within established safety standards.
Therefore, the average American's exposure to low-level
residues, though fairly constant, should not cause alarm. Still, many
people want to learn what choices they can make
to further reduce their exposure to any potential risks associated
with pesticides. By limiting your exposure to these products,
you can keep your risks to a minimum. Below you
will find descriptions of the main pathways of human
exposure to pesticides, as well as suggestions on ways to reduce
overall exposure and attendant risks. If, however, you suspect
that you suffer from serious chemical sensitivities, consult
an expert to develop a more personally tailored approach
to managing this problem. Exposure
Through Food Commercial
Food Throughout
life--beginning even before birth--we are all exposed
to pesticides. A major source of exposure is through our
diets. We constantly consume small amounts of pesticides. Fruits
and vegetables, as well as meat, poultry, eggs, and milk,
are all likely to contain measurable pesticide residues. EPA
sets standards, called tolerances, to limit the amount of
pesticide residues that legally may remain in or on food or animal
feed marketed in U.S. commerce. Both domestic and imported
foods are monitored by the Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
to ensure compliance with these tolerances. Further, since
pesticide residues generally tend to degrade over time and
through processing, residue concentrations in or on most foods
are well below legal tolerance levels by the time the foods
are purchased. Although
EPA does limit dietary pesticide exposure through tolerances,
you may wish to take extra precautions. You can take
several steps to reduce your exposure to residues in purchased
food: Rinse
fruit and vegetables thoroughly with water; scrub them
with a brush and peel them, if possible. Although this
surface cleaning will not remove "systemic" pesticide
residues taken up into
the growing fruit or vegetable, it will
remove most of the existing surface residues, not to mention
any dirt. Cook
or bake foods to reduce residues of some (but not all)
pesticides. Trim
the fat from meat and poultry. Discard the fats and oils
in broths and pan drippings, since residues of some pesticides
concentrate in fat. Home-grown
Food Growing
some of your own food can be both a pleasurable activity
and a way to reduce your exposure to pesticide residues
in food. But, even here, there are some things you may want
to do to assure that exposure is limited. Before
converting land in an urban or suburban area to gardening,
find out how the land was used previously. Choose
a site that had limited (or no) chemical applications
and where drift or runoff from your neighbor's
activities will not result in unintended pesticide
residues on your produce. Choose a garden site strategically
to avoid these potential routes of entry, if possible.
If you are taking over
an existing garden plot, be aware that
the soil may contain pesticide residues from previous gardening
activities. These residues may remain in the soil
for several years, depending on the persistence of the
pesticides that were used. Rather than waiting for the residues
to decline naturally over time, you may speed the process. Plant
an interim, non-food, crop like annual rye grass, clover,
or alfalfa. Such crops, with their dense, fibrous root
systems, will take up some of the lingering pesticide residues.
Then discard the crops--don't work them back into
the soil--and continue to alternate food crops with cover
crops in the off season. During
sunny periods, turn over the soil as often as every two
to three days for a week or two. The sunlight will help
to break down, or photo-degrade, some of the pesticide residues.
Once you do begin
gardening, develop strategies that will reduce
your need for pesticides while maintaining good crop
yields. Concentrate
on building your garden's soil, since healthy soil
grows healthy plants. Feed the soil with compost, manure,
etc., to increase its capacity to support strong crops. Select
seeds and seedlings from hardy, disease-resistant varieties.
The resulting plants are less likely to need pesticides
in order to flourish. Avoid
monoculture gardening techniques. Instead, alternate rows
of different kinds of plants to prevent significant pest
problems from developing. Don't
plant the same crop in the same spot year after year if
you want to reduce plant susceptibility to over-wintered
pests. Become
familiar with integrated pest management techniques,
so that you can manage any pest outbreaks that do
occur without relying solely on pesticides. Mulch
your garden with leaves, hay, grass clippings, shredded/chipped
bark, or seaweed. Avoid using newspapers to
keep down weeds, and sewage sludge to fertilize plants. Newsprint
may contain heavy metals; sludge may contain heavy
metals and pesticides, both of which can leach into your
soil. Food from
the Wild While it
might seem that hunting your own game, catching your
own fish, or gathering wild plant foods would reduce your overall
exposure to pesticides, this isn't necessarily so. Wild foods
hunted, caught, or gathered in areas where pesticides are frequently
used outdoors may contain pesticide residues. Migratory
species also may contain pesticide residues if these chemicals
are used anywhere in their flyways. Tolerances
generally are not established or enforced for pesticides
found in wild game, fowl, fish, or plants. Thus, if you
consume food from the wild, you may want to take the following
steps to reduce your exposure to pesticide residues. Because
wild game is very lean, there is less fat in which pesticides
can accumulate. However, avoid hunting in areas where
pesticide usage is very high. Avoid
fishing in water bodies where water contamination is known
to have occurred. Pay attention to posted signs warning
of contamination. You
may want to consult with fish and game officials where you
plan to hunt or fish to determine whether there are any
pesticide problems associated with that area. When
picking wild plant foods, avoid gathering right next to
a road, utility right-of-way, or hedgerow between farm fields
which probably have been treated (directly or indirectly)
with pesticides. Instead, seek out fields that have
not been used to produce crops, deep woods, or other areas
where pesticide use is unlikely. When
preparing wild foods, trim fat from meat, and discard skin
of fish to remove as many fat-soluble pesticide residues
as possible. For wild plant foods, follow the tips
provided for commercial food. Exposure
Through Water Whether it
comes from surface or ground water sources, the water
flowing from your tap may contain low levels of pesticides. When
pesticides are applied to land, a certain amount may run
off the land into streams and rivers. This runoff, coupled with
industrial discharges, can result in low-level contamination
of surface water. In certain hydrogeologic settings--for
example, sandy soil over a ground water source that
is near the surface--pesticides can leach down through the soil
to the ground water. EPA's Water
Program sets standards and provides advisory levels
for pesticides and other chemicals that may be found in drinking
water. Public municipal water systems test their water periodically
and provide treatment or alternate supply sources if
residue problems arise. Private wells generally are not tested
unless the well owner requests such analysis. If
you get your drinking water from a private well, you can
reduce the chance of contaminating your water supply
by following these guidelines: Be
cautious about using pesticides and other chemicals on your
property, especially if the well is shallow or is not tightly
constructed. Check with your EPA regional office or
County Extension Service before using a pesticide outdoors,
to determine whether it is known or suspected to leach
to ground water. Never use or mix a pesticide near your
well head. To
avoid pesticide contamination problems, be sure your well
extends downward to aquifers that are below, and isolated
from, surface aquifers, and be sure the well shaft
is tightly sealed. If you have questions about pesticide
or other chemical residues in your well water, contact
your state or county health department. If your
well water is analyzed and found to contain pesticide
residue levels above established or recommended health
standards, you may wish to use an alternate water source
such as bottled water for drinking and cooking. The best
choice is distilled spring water in glass bottles. Ask
your local bottler for the results of a recent pesticide
analysis. Exposure
Through Air Outdoors,
air currents may carry pesticides that were applied
on adjacent property or miles away. But there are steps you
can take to reduce your exposure to airborne pesticide residue,
or drift, outdoors. To reduce your exposure to airborne
pesticides: Avoid
applying pesticides in windy weather (when winds exceed
10 miles per hour). Use
coarse droplet nozzles to reduce misting. Apply
the spray as close to the target as possible. Keep
the wind to your side so that sprays and dusts do not blow
into your face. If
someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your home,
stay indoors with your pets and children, keeping doors
and windows closed. If it is very windy during the pesticide
application, stay inside for an hour or two. If
pesticides are applied frequently near your home (if you
live next to fields receiving regular pesticide treatment),
consider planting a buffer zone of thick-branched
trees and shrubs upwind to help serve as a buffer
zone and windbreak. Many
local governments require public notification in advance
of area-wide or broad-scale pesticide spray activities
and programs--through announcements in newspapers,
letters to area residents, or posting of signs in
areas to be treated. Some communities have also enacted "right
to know" ordinances which require public notification,
usually through posting, of lawn treatments and
other small-scale outdoor pesticide uses. If your local
government does not require notifications, either for
large- or small-scale applications, you may want to work
with local officials to develop such requirements. Indoors,
the air you breathe may bear pesticide residues long
after a pesticide has been applied to objects in your home
or office, or to indoor surfaces and crawl spaces. Pesticides
dissipate more slowly indoors than outdoors. In addition,
energy efficiency features built into many homes reduce
air exchange, aggravating the problem. To limit your
exposure to indoor pesticide residues: |
